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I’ve written before that I love working at a Garden Center because I’ve been learning so much about the plants around me, and most importantly, how to care for my own plants better. One thing I was surprised by was plants I thought were perennials, like Dahlias, behave more like annuals here in Massachusetts. The pros here kept telling me, yes, they are perennials… somewhere. Just not here. With that said, and a little extra work on your part, there may be a way to save those tender perennials from year to year. Below is a list of plants that are not winter-hardy, or are native to warmer climates, that need to be dug up and stored indoors during the winter to survive. Tender Bulbs, Tubers, and Corms Dahlias (Dahlia spp.) Dig up tubers after the first frost; store in a cool, dry place. Cannas (Canna spp.) Lift rhizomes after frost; store in a cool, dry area. Gladiolus (Gladiolus spp.) Dig up corms before the first hard frost; store in a dry, frost-free place. Elephant Ears (Colocasia and Alocasia spp.) Lift tubers before frost; keep in a cool, dry spot indoors. Tuberous Begonias (Begonia tuberhybrida) Dig up tubers after foliage dies back; store in a cool, dry place. Caladium (Caladium spp.) Lift tubers before frost; store in a warm, dry area. Crocosmia (Crocosmia spp.) Dig up corms before frost; store in a cool, dry place. Calla Lilies (Zantedeschia spp.) Dig up rhizomes before frost; store in a cool, dry place. Peacock Orchid (Gladiolus murielae, also known as Acidanthera) Dig up corms before frost; store in a cool, dry place. Oxalis (Oxalis spp.) Lift bulbs or tubers before frost; store in a cool, dry location.   Tender Perennials Geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) Can be potted up and kept indoors as houseplants or stored dormant in a cool, dry area. Fuchsias (Fuchsia spp.) Bring indoors as houseplants or store in a cool, frost-free area. Salvias (Tender species like Salvia guaranitica) Bring indoors or store in a cool, dry spot. Mexican Sage (Salvia leucantha) Not frost-hardy; dig up and store indoors. Sweet Potato Vine (Ipomoea batatas) Can be overwintered by storing tubers in a cool, dry place. Lantana (Lantana camara) Bring indoors or treat as an annual; not cold-hardy. Coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides) Bring indoors as a houseplant or take cuttings for propagation. Mandevilla (Mandevilla spp.) Bring indoors as a houseplant; not frost-hardy. Brugmansia (Angel’s Trumpet) Bring indoors; needs a frost-free environment. Hibiscus (Tropical varieties, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) Bring indoors as houseplants.    Tender Vines and Climbers Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spp.) Bring indoors or place in a frost-free greenhouse. Passionflower (Passiflora spp.) Bring indoors; not hardy in Massachusetts winters. Black-eyed Susan Vine (Thunbergia alata) Can be brought indoors or treated as an annual. Morning Glory (Ipomoea spp., tender varieties) Not frost-hardy; often treated as an annual.    Succulents and Tender Tropicals Banana Plants (Musa spp.) Dig up and store in a cool, frost-free place or bring indoors as a houseplant. Agapanthus (Agapanthus spp.) Tender varieties need to be brought indoors or stored in a cool, dry spot. Sago Palm (Cycas revoluta) Bring indoors; not frost-tolerant. Jasmine (Tender varieties, e.g., Jasminum sambac) Bring indoors or keep in a frost-free greenhouse. Cordyline (Cordyline spp.) Not frost-hardy; bring indoors as a houseplant.    Tips for Storing Tender Perennials: Digging Up: Carefully dig up the plants after the first light frost or before a hard frost. Shake off excess soil, trim off dead foliage, and allow the roots or tubers to dry before storing. Storage Conditions: Store in a cool (40-50°F), dark, dry, and well-ventilated space. Many plants do well in peat moss, sand, or vermiculite to prevent them from drying out completely. Periodic Checks: Check the stored plants periodically throughout the winter. Discard any that show signs of rot or disease.   Thanks for reading! If you would like to learn more plant facts or advice, check us out on the web at: www.newenglandnurseries.com .

Did you know that some plants require a period of cold in order to thrive? Thus, they are best planted in the fall. The process is called cold stratification. Read on to learn more and check out which plants you should be planting this fall. Cold stratification is a process that mimics the natural winter conditions many plant seeds need to break dormancy and germinate successfully in the spring. In Massachusetts, the cold winters naturally provide the necessary conditions for these seeds. Here is a list of plant seeds that typically require cold stratification: Perennial Flowers and Wildflowers Milkweed (Asclepias spp.) Essential for monarch butterflies; seeds need cold stratification for 30-60 days. Lupines (Lupinus spp.) Requires stratification for 30-60 days for better germination rates. Echinacea (Coneflowers, Echinacea spp.) Seeds should be cold stratified for 30-90 days. Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) Cold stratification for 30-60 days improves germination. Columbine (Aquilegia spp.) Needs 3-4 weeks of cold stratification for optimal germination. Penstemon (Penstemon spp.) Typically needs 30-60 days of stratification. Poppies (Papaver spp.) Some varieties benefit from cold stratification for 30 days. Primrose (Primula spp.) Requires 4-6 weeks of cold stratification. Baptisia (False Indigo) Needs cold stratification for 4-6 weeks. Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) Cold stratify for about 30 days for best results. Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium spp.) Requires 4-6 weeks of cold stratification. Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica) Requires cold stratification for about 60 days. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) Needs cold stratification for 30-60 days. Native Grasses Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) Requires 30-60 days of cold stratification. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) Cold stratify for 30-60 days. Purple Lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis) Benefits from cold stratification for 30 days. Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) Requires cold stratification for about 30 days. Trees and Shrubs Redbud (Cercis canadensis) Needs 30-60 days of cold stratification. Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) Requires 60-90 days of stratification. Maple (Acer spp.) Many species require 40-90 days of cold stratification. Dogwood (Cornus spp.) Seeds need 90-120 days of cold stratification. Hazelnut (Corylus spp.) Requires 90-120 days of cold stratification. Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) Needs a longer cold stratification period of 90-120 days. Oak (Quercus spp.) Acorns often require 30-60 days of cold stratification. Herbs Lavender (Lavandula spp.) Some varieties require 30-40 days of cold stratification. Echinacea (Coneflower) Needs 30-60 days of cold stratification. Angelica (Angelica archangelica) Requires 30-60 days of cold stratification. Asparagus Plant crowns or seeds in the fall for establishment over winter. Rhubarb Plant crowns in the fall; they will establish roots over winter. Vegetables (These plants don’t require cold stratification in order to germinate properly, but they could overwinter nicely for an early harvest!) Garlic Plant cloves in the fall for a summer harvest. Onions (Sets or Seeds) Fall planting can lead to larger bulbs in the spring. Shallots Similar to garlic, plant in the fall for a summer harvest. Carrots Some varieties can be planted in the fall and overwintered for an early spring harvest. Spinach Cold-hardy and will often overwinter for early spring growth. Kale Can be planted in late fall; it will grow in early spring when temperatures are still cool. Radishes Some varieties can be sown in the fall and harvested before the ground freezes or in early spring. Turnips Sow seeds in late summer to early fall for a fall harvest or overwintering. Cover Crops Winter Rye Excellent for soil improvement and erosion control; plant in late fall. Crimson Clover Adds nitrogen to the soil and protects it over winter. Field Peas A legume that fixes nitrogen and provides organic matter. Hairy Vetch Fixes nitrogen and adds biomass to the soil. Thanks for reading! Check out more interesting plant facts and advice on our website at: www.newenglandnurseries.com .

New England Nurseries Rose Guide Roses are a delightful addition to any yard, offering a vibrant color and a sweet fragrance that can transform outdoor spaces into enchanting retreats. Their diverse varieties provide endless possibilities for gardeners, from climbing roses that adorn trellises with cascading blooms to compact bushes perfect for borders and walkways. Beyond their beauty, roses attract pollinators like bees and butterflies, enhancing the ecological health of your garden. Their timeless elegance and enduring appeal make roses a cherished feature in any landscape. Interested in adding roses as a feature to your yard, but not sure where to start, or which to choose? Check out New England Nurseries’ handy Rose Guide. We’ll take you through the different types of roses, briefly explain rose fragrances, and show you which roses we currently carry. Types of Roses Hybrid Tea Roses: Known for their long stems and classic, elegant blooms, hybrid tea roses are popular for cutting and display in arrangements. They come in a wide range of colors and often have a strong fragrance. Floribunda Roses: These roses produce clusters of flowers on each stem, creating a profusion of color in the garden. They are generally more compact and bushier than hybrid teas and bloom repeatedly throughout the season. Polyantha & Groundcover Roses: Polyantha & Groundcover Roses are shorter plants that have smaller blooms perfect for edgings and hedges. They come in a variety of hues and colors, such as bright whites, lovely soft pinks, and bright reds. Grow them in a small garden space or even in a container. Grandiflora Roses: A cross between hybrid tea roses and floribundas, grandifloras typically produce large, showy blooms on tall stems. They combine the best qualities of both parent types, offering the beauty of hybrid teas with the prolific flowering of floribundas. Climbing Roses: These roses have long, flexible canes that can be trained to grow horizontally or vertically against a support structure such as a trellis, fence, or wall. They add vertical interest to gardens and often produce an abundance of flowers. Shrub Roses: Known for their hardiness and versatility, shrub roses encompass a wide range of varieties, from compact, low-growing bushes to sprawling, large shrubs. They are generally easy to care for and offer continuous blooms throughout the growing season. Miniature Roses: Miniature roses are petite versions of their larger counterparts, with small flowers and compact growth habits. They are well-suited to container gardening and smaller spaces, adding charm and color to balconies, patios, and windowsills. Old Garden Roses: These roses encompass a diverse group of varieties that existed before the introduction of modern rose hybrids in the 19th century. They are prized for their historical significance, fragrance, and often disease-resistant nature. Examples include gallicas, damasks, and albas. English/David Austin Roses: Named after the British rose breeder, David Austin, these roses come in hundreds of varieties. These roses are quite popular. Their rosette-shaped roses have the scent of an Old Rose variety, and also a continuous blooming as well as a broad range of colors like that of Modern Roses. Species Roses: They come in many sizes, shapes, and habits. These are the original, wild, and native roses, parents of many of the bred and engineered roses. Rose Fragrances Explained Fruity: Found across all colors of English Roses, fruity fragrances are diverse, ranging from zesty citrus scents to rich berry and exotic fruit aromas. With notes such as apple, mango, and elderflower, fruity fragrances are fresh and uplifting, each with its own delicious twist. Myrrh: This distinctive scent holds a majestic spiciness and the aromatic warmth of sweet anise. Found almost exclusively in English Roses, it can be an acquired taste due to the medicinal character of licorice notes. Old Rose: Seen as the classic rose fragrance, it is traditional, with warm, heady notes, often softened with a dash of sweetness. Unique in its character, and reminiscent of rose perfumes, it is arguably the most delicious of all the rose fragrances and can be found almost exclusively in pink and red roses. Tea: True to its name, the Tea Rose scent is often said to resemble a freshly opened packet of tea. In English Roses, the aroma most frequently appears in the yellow and apricots. A complex fragrance, it can have sweeter elements of violets and fruitiness mixed with spicy, tar-like qualities of the dominating tea notes. Musk: The musk scent, resembling the old musk used in perfumes, is a warm, rich fragrance that can be both sweet and spicy and, at times, is dominated by the scent of cloves. Unlike other fragrance types, musk is produced in the stamens rather than in the petals of a rose. Musk is often found in ramblers (climbing), where the sheer abundance of flowers creates a heady blanket of perfume. Other Terminology Used to Describe Fragrance Citrusy: Roses with a citrusy fragrance exude a refreshing aroma reminiscent of lemon or orange zest, adding a vibrant and invigorating touch to any bouquet or garden. Spicy: Infused with warm and exotic notes, spicy rose fragrances evoke a sense of depth and intrigue, with hints of cloves, cinnamon, or pepper creating a rich olfactory experience. Floral: Classic and timeless, floral rose fragrances capture the pure essence of the flower itself, with a delicate and romantic aroma that embodies the epitome of elegance and grace. Herbal: With a green and earthy undertone, herbal rose scents evoke the freshness of a garden after rainfall, featuring hints of mint, basil, or eucalyptus for a revitalizing and natural fragrance. * Please note that the fragrance guide, and the fragrances listed over the next few pages, are based on information from rose growers and distributors. Fragrances can vary in scent and intensity from one individual to the next. Rose Rose Name Type Fragrance Blaze Climbing Rose Mild fragrance with a hint of spice Joseph's Coat Climbing Rose Moderate Fra-grance New Dawn Climbing Rose Moderate Fra-grance Graham Thomas David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance Benjamin Britten David Austin Eng-lish Rose David Austin Eng-lish Rose Claire Austin David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Crown Princess Margareta David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance Darcey Bussell David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Golden Celebration David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance Jubilee Celebration David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance Olivia Rose Austin David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance The Poet's Wife David Austin Eng-lish Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance L.D. Braithwaite English Rose Strong Old Rose Fragrance Harlow Carr English Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Lichfield Angel English Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Mary Rose English Rose Strong Old Rose Fragrance Munstead Wood English Rose Strong Old Rose Fragrance Pat Austin English Rose Strong Tea Fra-grance Queen of Sweden English Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Tranquility English Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Winchester Cathe-dral English Rose Strong Myrrh Fragrance Campfire Floribunda Rose Light Fragrance Easy Italian Ice Floribunda Rose Mild Citrus Fragrance Easy Going Floribunda Rose Moderate Citrus Fragrance Fragrant Carpet Fragrant lipstick Floribunda Rose Moderate Fragrance High Voltage Floribunda Rose Moderate Fragrance Julia Childs Floribunda Rose Moderate licorice Fragrance Kolorscape Kardi-nal Floribunda Rose Mild Fragrance Kolorscape lemon Fizz Floribunda Rose Mild Citrus Fragrance Lavender Veranda Floribunda Rose Light Fragrance Princess Alexandra Floribunda Rose Moderate Fragrance Sweet Spot Ruby Floribunda Rose Mild Fragrance Sweet Spot Yellow Floribunda Rose Mild Fragrance Take it Easy Floribunda Rose Moderate Fra-grance Whipped Cream Rose Floribunda Rose Moderate Fra-grance Music Box Rose Grandiflora Rose Light Fragrance Rise Up lilac Days Grandiflora Rose Light Fragrance Coral Drift Groundcover Rose Mild Fragrance Pink Drift Groundcover Rose Mild Fragrance Popcorn Drift Groundcover Rose Mild Fragrance Red Drift Groundcover Rose Mild Fragrance Anna's Promise Hybrid Tea Rose Strong citrus and fruity fragrance Miracle on the Hud-son Hybrid Tea Rose Moderate Fra-grance Grandma's Bless-ing Hybrid Tea Rose Strong Fra-grance Pink Miracle Hybrid Tea Rose Strong Fra-grance Sunorita Hybrid Tea Rose Moderate Fra-grance Sweet Fragrance Hybrid Tea Rose Strong Fra-grance True Bloom True Passion Hybrid Tea Rose Moderate Fra-grance The Fairy Polyantha Rose Mild Fragrance At Jast Shrub Rose Moderate spicy fragrance Blushing Knock Out Shrub Rose Light, sweet fra-grance Coral Cove Shrub Rose Light Citrus Fra-grance Double Knock Out Shrub Rose Įight Fragrance Double Red Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Easy Elegance Ca-lypso Shrub Rose Moderate Fragrance Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Knock Out Petite Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Peachy Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Pink Double Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Pink Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Rainbow Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Sunny Knock Out Shrub Rose Light Fragrance Father Hugo's Rose Species/Shrub Rose Strong Įemon Fragrance Rugosa Rose Species/Shrub Rose Strong Fra-grance Rugosa Rose White Species/Shrub Rose Strong Fra-grance Virginiana Rose Species/Shrub Rose Strong Fra-grance

In Eastern Massachusetts, the average first frost date is between October 1st and 15th. And, New Englander’s know that when we get a frost warning, it’s time to cover plants, or bring them indoors when you can. Do you know which plants need this special care? If not, we’re here to help. The plant list below will tell you which plants typically need to be brought indoors, covered, or otherwise protected when frost is expected. Some perennials can survive a cold Massachusetts winter if they're mulched heavily or grown in more sheltered locations, but many will need to be treated as annuals or moved indoors over the winter. For example, you can grow the same Dahlia tubers year to year, but you’ll want to dig up and store the tubers indoors until Spring. If you want to learn more about which plants you’ll want to consider storing for the winter, check out our Tender Perennials to Winter Indoors, website post. Frost-Sensitive Annuals Marigolds (Tagetes) Zinnias (Zinnia elegans) Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana) Begonias (Begonia spp.) Petunias (Petunia spp.) Coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides) Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) Morning Glories (Ipomoea spp.) Geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima) Frost-Sensitive Perennials Dahlias (Dahlia spp.) Cannas (Canna spp.) Elephant Ears (Colocasia spp.) Gladiolus (Gladiolus spp.) Tender Ferns (e.g., Boston Fern) Tuberous Begonias (Begonia tuberhybrida) Fuchsias (Fuchsia spp.) Angelonia (Angelonia angustifolia) Salvia (Salvia splendens) New Guinea Impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri) Frost-Sensitive Vegetables and Herbs By our first frost, most of these plants will have been harvested, done growing, and/or dying off. However, in case you have some particularly robust plants or we have an especially early frost, keep the following plants in mind during a frost warning. Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) Peppers (Capsicum spp.) Eggplants (Solanum melongena) Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) Squash (Cucurbita spp.) Basil (Ocimum basilicum) Beans (Phaseolus spp.) Corn (Zea mays) Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) Pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo) Basil (Ocimum basilicum) Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) Dill (Anethum graveolens) Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) Frost-Sensitive Flowering Shrubs Hydrangeas (some varieties, e.g., Hydrangea macrophylla) Tropical Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spp.) Thanks for reading! Check out more advice and plant-facts at newenglandnurseries.com .

Designing a New Garden for Beginners Have you decided to try your hand at gardening? Gardening is a fun and rewarding hobby for New England residents. But where do you start? If you’re a beginner, the prospect of designing a garden can be daunting. You may be wondering how to start a flower garden or how to draw a garden plan. That’s why our Bedford Garden Center has put together this handy guide for designing a garden for beginners. Just follow these simple steps and you’ll have a beautiful garden in no time. Create a Plan The first step in designing a garden is to create a plan. This doesn’t have to be a complicated process. Simply grab a pen and paper and sketch out a rough idea of what you envision for your garden. Consider the size and shape of your yard, as well as the amount of sunlight it receives. Then, decide what type of garden you’d like to create. Do you want a flower garden, a vegetable garden, or a mix of both? Once you have a general idea of what you want, it’s time to start planning your garden layout. Choose Your Plants Now that you have a plan for your garden, it’s time to choose your plants. When selecting plants, it’s important to consider the climate in New England. Some plants may not thrive in our cooler temperatures and shorter growing seasons. Our gardening experts at New England Nurseries can help you choose the best plants for your garden. Prepare Your Soil After you’ve selected your plants, it’s time to prepare your soil. This is an important step in ensuring that your plants will have the nutrients they need to grow. The type of soil you have will determine how you need to prepare it. For example, if you have sandy soil, you’ll need to add organic matter to help retain moisture. If you have clay soil, you’ll need to add sand to improve drainage. Once you’ve prepared your soil, you’re ready to plant. Plant Your Garden Now that your soil is ready, it’s time to start planting. Be sure to plant your taller plants in the back and shorter plants in the front. This will ensure that all of your plants are visible. Be sure that you are planting your selections in the right time of year. Some plants need to be started indoors and then transplanted outdoors. Others can be planted directly in the ground. Our experts at New England Nurseries can help you determine the best time to plant your garden. Water and Fertilize Your Plants Once your plants are in the ground, they will need regular watering and fertilizing. How often you need to water and fertilize will depend on the type of plants you’re growing. Be sure to check the labels on your plants or ask our experts for guidance. With regular watering and fertilizing, your garden will soon be in full bloom. New England Nurseries has been serving MetroWest & Bedford, MA since 1880. This established and experienced nursery not only provides a wide range of indoor house plants and supplies but also all the knowledge to go with them. Our team at New England Nurseries is passionate about plants and helping them thrive. If you are interested in purchasing or learning more about indoor plants, contact our team today!

Deadheading is the process of removing spent blooms or foliage from flowers and plants. This can be done by simply snapping off the bloom at the stem, or cutting it back to a leaf node (the point where leaves are attached to the stem). Deadheading not only helps your plants look neater but can also encourage new growth. Why Do I Need to Deadhead Flowers? There are a few reasons why you might want to deadhead your flowers. For one, it can help them to look their best – removing spent blooms will give the plant a neater appearance. Additionally, deadheading can encourage new growth, as the plant will put its energy into producing new blooms rather than into producing seeds. Deadheading can also prevent the spread of diseases, as pathogens can often enter a plant through spent blooms. Which Flowers Can You Deadhead? Almost any flower can be deadheaded, but there are a few that benefit particularly from this practice. Annual flowers, such as impatiens and petunias, will often bloom more profusely if you deadhead them regularly. Perennials, such as daisies and coneflowers, can also be deadheaded to promote more growth. How to Deadhead Flowers in Your Garden Now that you know what deadheading is and why you should do it, you may be wondering how to go about it. Deadheading is a simple process, but there are a few things to keep in mind. First, make sure you have sharp pruning shears or scissors – this will make the job easier and prevent damage to the plant. Second, be sure to cut at an angle just above a leaf node – this will encourage new growth. Finally, be sure to add fertilizer after you’re done, as deadheading can be taxing on the plant. How to Deadhead: Annuals vs. Perennials Annual flowers, such as impatiens and petunias, will often bloom more profusely if you deadhead them regularly. You can deadhead them once or twice a week to create more blooms. Perennials, such as daisies and coneflowers, can also be deadheaded to ensure that your plants grow as many flowers as possible. Plants You Should Deadhead Some of the best plants to deadhead are: Columbine Garden cosmos Geraniums Lavender Hollyhock Rose campion Larkspur Daisies Wild violets Plants You Should Not Deadhead While many plants can be deadheaded, some should be left alone. They include: Barrenwort Joe-Pye weed Leopard plant Peony Goat’s beard New England Nurseries has been serving MetroWest & Bedford, MA since 1880. This established and experienced nursery not only provides a wide range of indoor house plants and supplies but also all the knowledge to go with them. Our team at New England Nurseries is passionate about plants and helping them thrive. If you are interested in purchasing or learning more about indoor plants, contact our team today!

How to Get Rid of and Prevent Bugs on Indoor Plants There is a wide range of plants that can thrive in an indoor environment and grow successfully in a pot or container. Indoor plants bring along many benefits, including improving air quality, reducing stress, and improving overall environmental wellness. However, indoor plants can attract and retain bugs. Luckily, there are many ways to address and eliminate this problem. The Basic Needs of Indoor Plants There are seven basic needs for indoor plants to thrive: The right amount of water Temperatures of 60 degrees and up Consistent light Potting soil with nutrients The right size pots Fertilizer Pest management Health Benefits of Indoor Plants Indoor plants bring a variety of health benefits to their environment, such as: Improved Air Quality – Indoor plants replace carbon dioxide with fresh oxygen that has reduced amounts of air pollution like mold and mildew. Stress Reduction – Caring for indoor plants can reduce the stress of those doing the caring. Interacting with indoor plants creates a meaningful connection that is good for overall mental health. Improved Sense of Well-Being – Indoor plants can help improve focus and reduce anxious or depressive feelings. Seven Most Common Indoor Plant Bugs Indoor plants are at risk of attracting and housing unwanted pests. The seven most common bugs found on indoor plants include: Aphids Scale Thrips Mealybugs Spider mites Fungus gnats Whiteflies Why Do Indoor Plants Have Bugs? Indoor plants are the perfect place for bugs because there are no natural predators present. In addition, inside conditions often have high humidity and low air circulation, creating a warm, enticing place where bugs want to live and reproduce. Fortunately, there are ways to eliminate pests from indoor plants, and ways to prevent infestations from happening in the first place. Your first line of defense is to determine exactly what type of pest your plant has. We can help you with this through a sample of the pest. This is best done by bringing in the specimen – on an affected leaf or stem – in a sealed plastic baggie. How to Get Rid of Bugs on Indoor Plants There are different remedies for getting rid of bugs depending on the type of pest or plant: Bugs on Indoor Plant Leaves – To get rid of bugs that are feeding on indoor plant leaves, first isolate the plant and clean the surrounding area. Then, wash the plant leaves and clean the pot. Use a cotton swab that has been soaked in rubbing alcohol to kill the remaining bugs. Lastly, utilize an insecticide to keep the bugs from returning. Flying Bugs – To get rid of flying bugs, use sticky stakes or sticky traps to capture and kill the flying bugs. To eliminate eggs, follow the same steps to get rid of bugs on indoor plant leaves. Bugs in Soil – To get rid of bugs living and breeding in the soil of an indoor plant, first remove the top layer of soil in the pot and throw it out. Replace the missing soil with fresh soil and drench the soil with a mix of 10 drops of liquid dish soap in a quart of water. How to Prevent Bugs on Indoor Plants Preventing bugs from invading indoor plants is easier and more effective than trying to get rid of them once they’re infested. Here are six ways to prevent bugs from attacking indoor plants: Don’t Overwater – Soil that is damp and soggy is perfect for breeding bugs. Soil should be dry on top before watering again to maintain a healthy balance of moisture. Keep an Eye Out for Bugs – Regularly look for signs of bugs so they can be addressed quickly, reducing the extent of the infestation. Ensure Good Air Flow – Proper air circulation gets rid of stale air that can attract bugs. Only Use Clean Pots – Always wash pots before using them and never put plants in a dirty pot that could already be infested with bugs. Clean Up Leaves – Leaves that have fallen off a plant and are laying on top of the soil are an ideal spot for bugs to live and breed. Keep Plants Healthy – A healthy plant is much less likely to be attacked and infested with unwanted bugs. New England Nurseries has been serving MetroWest & Bedford, MA since 1880. This established and experienced nursery not only provides a wide range of indoor house plants and supplies but also all the knowledge to go with them. Our team at New England Nurseries is passionate about plants and helping them thrive. If you are interested in purchasing or learning more about indoor plants, contact our team today!

December has arrived, and New England Nurseries is alive with holiday magic!   Customers are filling their carts with wreaths, trees, and unique ornaments, while our staff stays busy handcrafting porch pots and helping load up cars with seasonal treasures. The warmth and joy of the season are everywhere, making every visit a festive experience. Stop by soon to pick out your holiday favorites and let us help make your season merry and bright! New England Nurseries' Monthly Gardening Guide: December 2024 Did you know you can plant spring-flowering bulbs until the ground is frozen solid? If you can dig a hole with a shovel or spade, you can still plant! With a mild New England winter, you could potentially plant into January! With that said, it’s the perfect time to visit New England Nurseries and take advantage of great deals on our remaining bulbs. Don’t forget another important tip: keep watering your plants until the ground is completely frozen Test the soil around your plants and gardens - if it’s not frozen solid, your plants still need water. Different areas of your yard may freeze at different rates, so check various beds to make sure everything is covered. Our Top 10: Stocking Stuffers! Ever have something you are curious about, but never took the time to look up? For me, that was Christmas Stockings, until just now. What is the deal with the stockings or socks hung up on fireplaces? Christmas stockings are believed to have originated from the legend of Saint Nicholas, a 4th-century bishop known for his generosity. According to the tale, Saint Nicholas heard of a poor widower with three daughters who couldn’t afford dowries. To help, Nicholas secretly dropped gold coins down their chimney, which landed in stockings hung by the fireplace to dry. Well, that is an interesting tidbit of knowledge to share with the family during the holidays! And, with that, we'd like to share our Top 10 stocking stuffers from New England Nurseries. These small treasures are worth their weight in gold! This 4x6 Cavallini & Co 2025 planner. It's the perfect size to toss in a bag and keep with you so you never forget an appointment, meeting, or important to-do. The Cavalinni & Co mini pouch. There are so many uses for this cute canvas bag. It would make for a great pen & pencil pouch, makeup storage, travel jewelry bag, and more. A small wind chime. Perfect for an office or bedroom window. Naked Bee products. Save those hands this winter! This adorable Merry Mini Tree is by (local company) FreshCut Paper. A pair of Barebones scissors/nippers. These are perfect for the houseplant lover in your life. They are made from stainless steel, with a walnut handle, and an ambidextrous grip, they're rust-resistant and come with a 5-year warranty. How about a seed ornament for the avid Birder in your life? For the crafty ones in the family, a Rolife Dreamy Terrace Garden is a great stocking stuffer. Another one for the Birders of all ages - an Audubon stuffed bird with a real bird call. And last, but not least, a fun nature-inspired umbrella! Gardening Trends We could never give up on gardening, even in the winter. Let's dish about Dish Gardens. Dish gardens are a delightful way to bring greenery into your home, combining various small plants in a single decorative container. They’re easy to care for and offer endless design possibilities. Here's what you need to know: Dish gardens date back to Victorian times when terrariums and indoor plant arrangements became fashionable. They are excellent gifts and can be customized for any occasion with themed decorations. And, they are eco-friendly, using less water and space than traditional potted plants. Which plants to use? Choose plants with similar light and watering needs. Here are some great options: Succulents : Echeveria, jade plant, and Haworthia. Cacti : Small varieties like moon cacti or pincushion cacti. Ferns : Button fern or maidenhair fern (for higher humidity environments). Tropical Plants : Miniature versions of pothos, philodendrons, or dracaenas. Air Plants : These can be tucked into the design for a unique touch. Herbs : Parsley, thyme, or basil can work for a culinary-themed garden. How to create your very own miniature indoor garden: Select a Container : Choose a shallow dish or bowl with or without drainage holes. If there are no drainage holes, add a thick layer of pebbles or activated charcoal to the bottom to prevent root rot. Add Soil : Use a soil mix appropriate for your plants. For succulents and cacti, a fast-draining cactus mix works best. For tropical plants, use a standard potting mix. Arrange Plants : Plan your layout before planting. Place taller plants in the back or center, and use smaller plants or ground covers like moss to fill gaps. Plant : Carefully remove each plant from its pot, loosen the roots slightly, and plant it at the same depth as it was in its original pot. Decorate : Add decorative stones, moss, or small figurines to enhance the garden's aesthetic. Tips on watering and plant care: Succulents and Cacti : Water sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out completely between waterings. Tropical Plants and Ferns : Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Check Soil : Always check the soil moisture with your finger before watering. Lighting : Most dish gardens do well in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight unless you’re growing succulents or cacti. Humidity : Tropical plants may appreciate occasional misting. Pruning : Trim back overgrown plants to maintain balance and prevent overcrowding. Fertilizing : Feed every 4-6 weeks during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer. Did You Know? Fun Plant Facts. Aside from our fresh-cut Christmas trees, the magic moves indoors in December, where our greenhouse truly shines this season. Let's take a look at Poinsettias. We've posted about this misunderstood plant in the past, and it's worth revisiting. Fact, fiction, or old folk tale?   Are poinsettias toxic to your pets or children?  Let's look deeper at this festive, yet often avoided, flowering plant.  Poinsettias (pronounced poyn-seh-tee-uh) are indigenous to Mexico and Central America, where in hardiness zones of 9 – 11, they can grow up to 13.1 feet tall as a perennial shrub!  Known for their vibrant red petals, called bracts, Poinsettias come in a wider variety of reds, pinks, and whites.  You can even find novelty poinsettias that boast a red and white spray-painted, speckled, look.  In its native land, the poinsettia is called Flor de Nochebuena, or Christmas Eve flower.  This holiday favorite was introduced to the US in the 1820s by the first US Minister to Mexico, Joel Roberts Poinsett. (Wikipedia, n.d.)  So, are Poinsettia toxic?  The answer is a surprising – no .  In 1919 there was one death that occurred in the vicinity of a poinsettia plant.  That implicated the plant as the cause, and from there urban legend and erroneous reporting spread the misinformation across the United States.  Since then, scientists have tried to find the toxicity threshold of the poinsettia but quit after the subject ate upward of 500 – 600 leaves with no significant ill effect.  Ingestion of the plant by humans or pets can, however, cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. ( Poison.org , n.d.)  Like any house plant, it could also pose a choking hazard.  The takeaway?  Go on out and grab yourself one of these cheery, holiday plants and display it confidently!  But, still keep it out of reach of curious little creatures.  Greenery or Gear: Product Spotlight You have to travel for the holidays but are concerned about the dry air and your precious indoor plants? Check out this wick-based watering system by Wicked Waterer. It comes with four units in a package, and all you need to do is place the spiked end into your plant’s soil and the other end into a jar or bottle of water.

Blooms & Beyond: Insights from New England Nurseries New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide:  May May in Massachusetts, or all of New England, is a tough time for gardeners.  Temperatures are getting warmer, our perennials are blooming, and we want to get those annuals planted and growing.  But, the threat of overnight frost looms over us.  At least, until mid-May.  So, what can an eager gardener do? Consider planting some of your favorite annuals in large pots that can be moved into a garage or shed, if necessary.  You can also plant your annuals and cover them overnight if there is a threat of frost.  There are several products on the market to protect tender plants overnight.  These include Harvest-Guard Protective Garden Cover or burlap.  You can also use an overturned pot, bucket, or light sheet.  Just ensure whatever you use is secure enough that it won’t blow off the plant in the middle of the night. If you’re planning to sow vegetable seeds directly in your garden, early May is the time to plant your green onions, carrots, lettuce, and Swiss chard.  Mid to late May is a good time to plant pole beans, turnips, bush beans, and corn.  And, the last week of May to early June is the time to plant your vining plants such as cucumbers, squash, and pumpkins.  If you haven’t started your seeds indoors, you’ll want to purchase pre-started transplants, if you want to grow tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant.  Plant those in your garden at the end of May.   Our Monthly Top 10 This month we’ll be talking about 10 easy-care shrubs that will give you immediate curb appeal with little maintenance.  Our one caveat here, is that every plant or shrub has conditions in which they thrive best.  So, follow the basic care instructions on the following shrubs and enjoy your landscaping without constantly fussing over it.  1. Spirea: Once established, spirea require little watering.  So long as they are planted in a well-draining area, they can adapt to various soil types and pH levels.  Trimming the shrub after the first bloom could potentially initiate a second bloom, and as a bonus, the foliage changes color in autumn providing fall appeal.   2. Hydrangea: Hydrangeas like hydration.  It’s in the name!  But they require little pruning.  They come in many colors and will grow in sun or shade.  Their huge, clustered blooms, provide a showy addition to your landscape.   3. Arborvitae: This evergreen shrub needs no to little pruning, and has dense foliage, making it a top pick for privacy hedging.    4. Weigela: Weigela is versatile in that it can be grown as hedges or borders, as well as, in containers.  Their showy flowers attract bees and butterflies, they like part to full sun and are deer-resistant.  5. Viburnum: These shrubs are not fussy about soil, enjoy full sun to partial shade, and their clusters of flowers smell amazing.    6. Forsythia: Once New Englanders see Forsythia in bloom, we know that Spring has finally arrived!  They sport those familiar yellow blooms, but even after bloom, they offer pretty green foliage through to autumn.  Forsythia is great as stand-alone shrubs or part of a hedge.  Fun fact, Forsythia are part of the olive family.    7. Lilac: Lilac is another Spring favorite with blooms that range from white, through shades of pink, to the familiar purple.  They like full sun and well-drained soil.  You don’t need to fertilize lilac very often.  Doing so may inhibit its flower growth.   8. Azaleas: These shrubs can live on with little to no maintenance.  They add instant yard appeal with Spring flowers that cover the entire shrub.  Azaleas come in a vast array of colors so they look great in any landscape.       9. Boxwood: Boxwood is another evergreen shrub that makes for a great stand-alone shrub, a hedge, or can be trimmed as a topiary.  They can be placed in full sun or partial shade.    10. Winterberry: If you have an area with poor drainage, Winterberry is your friend.  Winterberry is part of the Holly family and has green foliage in warmer months that turns golden in autumn.  It’s capable of growing in full shade but at the expense of flowers and berries.    Gardening Trends In this month’s Gardening Trends, we are looking at the growing trend of small-space gardening, such as containers and micro-gardens.  Container, vertical, and raised-bed gardening aren’t new concepts, but in the past few years they have gained in popularity and the trend continues upward.  Container and micro-gardening are a versatile way to grow herbs, veggies, and fruit in small yards, urban spaces, and even indoors.    Some of the many benefits of container gardening include: 1. Space Efficiency: Containers allow you to grow plants in small spaces like balconies, patios, decks, and rooftops.  Many edible and fruit-bearing plants grow very well in hanging baskets as well.    2. Portability: Containers are movable, allowing you to position your plants to optimize sunlight exposure and protection from harsh weather conditions.   3. Soil Control: You have complete control over the soil composition, drainage, and pH when using containers, which can be particularly advantageous for plants with specific soil requirements.   4. Weed Control: Container gardening minimizes weed growth, as the plants are isolated from the ground where weed seeds typically reside.   5. Pest Management: Containers make it easier to monitor and manage pests, as you can isolate affected plants and implement targeted pest control measures without affecting the entire garden.   6. Disease Prevention: Container gardening reduces the risk of soil-borne diseases, as you can start with fresh, sterile soil and avoid soil contamination from previous plantings.   7. Accessibility: Containers can be raised to a comfortable height, reducing the need for bending or kneeling, which makes gardening more accessible for individuals with mobility issues.   8. Season Extension: Containers can be moved indoors during colder weather, extending the growing season for certain plants and allowing you to enjoy fresh produce year-round.   9. Aesthetic Appeal: Containers come in various sizes, shapes, and materials, allowing you to create visually appealing arrangements that complement your outdoor or indoor living space.   10. Experimentation: Container gardening provides an opportunity to experiment with different plant varieties and growing techniques, enabling you to learn and adapt your gardening practices based on your experiences.   Need some ideas on where to get started?  If you want to try out large pots, try strawberries, bush tomatoes, bush beans, peppers, garlic, eggplant, spinach, or lettuce.  If you have a bunch of old flower pots hanging around, decorate your outdoor surfaces with little herb and tea gardens.  And, to try your hand at hanging baskets, try out strawberries, vining tomatoes, peas or beans, cucumbers, or lettuce.  An important note about container gardening – in the heat of summer the soil can dry faster than traditional gardens.  You may need to water your plants more than once per day, so monitor them closely.   Did You Know? - Fun Plant Facts Scientists have discovered a fascinating interaction between flowers and bees.  We know that bees eat nectar (for energy) and pollen (for protein and nutrients), and the beneficial side effect is cross-pollination, but there is so much more happening when that interaction occurs. Dr. Gregory Sutton, and his team, at the University of Bristol in the UK, studied the interaction more closely and found that flowers are negatively charged by the air around them at about 30 volts.  And bees, flapping their wings at around 200 beats per second, build up a positive charge.  When a bee gets close to a flower there is an electrical interaction between the two.  The pollen in the flower is attracted to the hairs on the bee's body via static electricity and jumps onto the bee.  Another interesting fact is that, for a short time after a bee visits a flower, the negative and positive charges cancel each other out.  When another bee draws near that flower, it can sense that the flower has no electric charge at that time and moves on to another flower.    To learn more, go to Sciencefriday.com ( https://www.sciencefriday.com/educational-resources/bumblebee-static-electricity/ ) or NPR.org ( https://tinyurl.com/muwwnpcr ) and to watch (and hear) the interaction take place check out the YouTube video by David Attenborough ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ee381dCP6JM ). Greenery or Gear: Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight This month’s spotlight is on an interesting and versatile houseplant – the Staghorn Fern.  Staghorn Ferns are epiphytes, which means they grow on other plants without harming them.  Aside from their unique antler-like look, being epiphytes, they can be mounted on wooden plants or other wooden features such as large branches.  This gives them a living art or living sculpture esthetic.  When well cared for they can live for decades.  In hot and humid landscapes, such as Florida, they can grow outside and have been recorded as large as 10 feet wide and 6 feet tall.  Aside from their unique look, they are excellent air purifiers and remove toxins and pollutants from their surroundings.  They thrive in indirect, bright light, and have specific watering needs.  We have many interesting specimens in stock now, come check them out!

Dig Up and Clean Bulbs Timing: Dig up tender bulbs (e.g., dahlias, cannas, gladiolus) after the first light frost when the foliage begins to wither. Cleaning: Gently shake off excess soil and remove any remaining foliage. Avoid washing the bulbs, as excess moisture can lead to rot.   Cure the Bulbs Curing Process: Lay the bulbs in a single layer in a dry, well-ventilated area for 1-2 weeks. This step allows the outer skins to dry and toughen, which helps prevent rot during storage. Ideal Conditions: Cure the bulbs in a spot with good air circulation and temperatures around 60-70°F (15-21°C).   Inspect and Prepare Bulbs for Storage Inspection: Discard any bulbs that show signs of mold, rot, or pest damage. Dusting with Fungicide (Optional): To prevent fungal growth, dust bulbs with a fungicide powder before storing.   Pack the Bulbs Material: Use paper bags, mesh bags, or cardboard boxes lined with newspaper. Avoid plastic containers or sealed bags, as they trap moisture and cause rot. Insulating Medium: Place bulbs in layers with peat moss, vermiculite, sawdust, or dry sand to help absorb excess moisture and keep them dry.   Store in an Appropriate Location Temperature: Store bulbs in a cool, dark, and dry place with a temperature range of 35-50°F (1-10°C). Basements, unheated garages, or root cellars are often ideal locations. Humidity: Ensure the storage area has moderate humidity to prevent bulbs from drying out or becoming too moist. Air Circulation: Maintain good ventilation to prevent mold and mildew.   Monitor Bulbs Periodically Check Monthly: Inspect the bulbs every few weeks to ensure they are firm and free from rot or mold. Adjust Moisture: If the bulbs are drying out, lightly mist the insulating medium to add a bit of moisture. If mold is present, remove affected bulbs and increase ventilation. Prepare for Planting Rehydrate (Optional): Before planting in spring, some gardeners soak bulbs for a few hours to help rehydrate them. Plan Early Planting: Once the danger of frost has passed, plant the bulbs in the garden according to their specific growing requirements.

Did you know that some plants require a period of cold in order to thrive?  Thus, they are best planted in the fall.  The process is called cold stratification.  Read on to learn more and check out which plants you should be planting this fall.   Cold stratification is a process that mimics the natural winter conditions many plant seeds need to break dormancy and germinate successfully in the spring.  In Massachusetts, the cold winters naturally provide the necessary conditions for these seeds.  Here is a list of plant seeds that typically require cold stratification:   Perennial Flowers and Wildflowers Milkweed (Asclepias spp.)  Essential for monarch butterflies; seeds need cold stratification for 30-60 days. Lupines (Lupinus spp.)  Requires stratification for 30-60 days for better germination rates. Echinacea (Coneflowers, Echinacea spp.)  Seeds should be cold stratified for 30-90 days. Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta)  Cold stratification for 30-60 days improves germination. Columbine (Aquilegia spp.)  Needs 3-4 weeks of cold stratification for optimal germination. Penstemon (Penstemon spp.)  Typically needs 30-60 days of stratification. Poppies (Papaver spp.)  Some varieties benefit from cold stratification for 30 days. Primrose (Primula spp.)  Requires 4-6 weeks of cold stratification. Baptisia (False Indigo)  Needs cold stratification for 4-6 weeks. Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa)  Cold stratify for about 30 days for best results. Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium spp.)  Requires 4-6 weeks of cold stratification. Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica)  Requires cold stratification for about 60 days. Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum)  Needs cold stratification for 30-60 days.   Native Grasses Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)  Requires 30-60 days of cold stratification. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)  Cold stratify for 30-60 days. Purple Lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis)  Benefits from cold stratification for 30 days. Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii)  Requires cold stratification for about 30 days.   Trees and Shrubs Redbud (Cercis canadensis)  Needs 30-60 days of cold stratification. Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)  Requires 60-90 days of stratification. Maple (Acer spp.)  Many species require 40-90 days of cold stratification. Dogwood (Cornus spp.)  Seeds need 90-120 days of cold stratification. Hazelnut (Corylus spp.)  Requires 90-120 days of cold stratification. Pawpaw (Asimina triloba)  Needs a longer cold stratification period of 90-120 days. Oak (Quercus spp.)  Acorns often require 30-60 days of cold stratification.   Herbs Lavender (Lavandula spp.)  Some varieties require 30-40 days of cold stratification. Echinacea (Coneflower)  Needs 30-60 days of cold stratification. Angelica (Angelica archangelica)  Requires 30-60 days of cold stratification. Asparagus  Plant crowns or seeds in the fall for establishment over winter. Rhubarb  Plant crowns in the fall; they will establish roots over winter.   Vegetables        (These plants don’t require  cold stratification in order to germinate properly, but they could overwinter nicely for an early harvest!) Garlic  Plant cloves in the fall for a summer harvest. Onions (Sets or Seeds) Fall planting can lead to larger bulbs in the spring. Shallots  Similar to garlic, plant in the fall for a summer harvest. Carrots  Some varieties can be planted in the fall and overwintered for an early spring harvest. Spinach  Cold-hardy and will often overwinter for early spring growth. Kale  Can be planted in late fall; it will grow in early spring when temperatures are still cool. Radishes  Some varieties can be sown in the fall and harvested before the ground freezes or in early spring. Turnips  Sow seeds in late summer to early fall for a fall harvest or overwintering. Cover Crops Winter Rye  Excellent for soil improvement and erosion control; plant in late fall. Crimson Clover  Adds nitrogen to the soil and protects it over winter. Field Peas  A legume that fixes nitrogen and provides organic matter. Hairy Vetch  Fixes nitrogen and adds biomass to the soil.

Blooms & Beyond:  Insights from New England Nurseries October 2024    Sweater-weather is quickly approaching.  But, before you pack up your gardening gear and head inside, keep in mind that autumn is a great time to plan (and plant) for the spring.  You’ll want to get your spring blooming bulbs in the ground, as well as replace any trees or shrubs that didn’t fair well over the Summer.  Lastly, you’ll want to check out the areas in the lawn where you need to repair or replace damaged or dead grass.  Keep reading for more fall to-dos!   New England Nurseries’ Monthly Garden Guide:  October October in Massachusetts is an excellent time to prepare your garden for the upcoming winter and ensure a healthy start for the next growing season. Here are some gardening tasks to focus on: Plant Spring-Blooming Bulbs Bulbs like tulips, daffodils, crocuses, and hyacinths should be planted now to ensure a vibrant spring display. Plant them in well-drained soil, about 2-3 times the depth of the bulb's height. Divide and Transplant Perennials Divide overgrown perennials like hostas, daylilies, irises, and peonies. October’s cooler weather is ideal for dividing and moving plants, allowing them to establish roots before winter. Mulch Garden Beds Add a layer of mulch (2-3 inches) around your garden beds to protect plants from temperature fluctuations and conserve moisture. Mulching also helps prevent soil erosion during winter rains and snow. Clean Up Annuals and Weeds Pull out spent annuals and vegetable plants, as they can harbor diseases and pests. Remove invasive weeds to prevent them from overwintering and spreading in the spring. Plant Garlic October is the best time to plant garlic in Massachusetts. Plant cloves pointy-side up, about 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart. Garlic will develop roots over the winter and be ready to harvest by mid-summer. Protect Tender Perennials Bring in any tender plants like herbs, tropicals, and container plants before the first frost. Plant Trees and Shrubs October is a great time to plant trees and shrubs, giving them time to establish roots before winter. Make sure to water them well until the ground freezes. Cut Back Dead and Diseased Foliage Prune back any dead or diseased foliage on perennials to prevent the spread of disease next year. However, leave ornamental grasses and seed heads like coneflowers for winter interest and wildlife.   Prepare the Lawn Overseed or fertilize the lawn if needed. Use a slow-release fertilizer designed for fall, which helps the grass recover from summer stress and strengthens roots for winter. Keep mowing until the grass stops growing, typically when temperatures consistently drop below 50°F. Wrap Young Trees Protect the bark of young or newly planted trees from winter damage by wrapping them with tree guards or burlap. Water Well Before Frost Give your plants a deep watering before the first frost, especially perennials and newly planted trees/shrubs. This helps them enter winter with a healthy moisture level.      Our Monthly Top 10: October is the favorite month for many.  Is it the cooler weather?  The pumpkin spice?  Or perhaps Halloween?  It’s probably different for everyone, but we definitely have several great reasons to love fall at New England Nurseries.  And, those reasons will be this month’s top 10!      1.      This cute little jack-o-lantern guy. Perfect for the garden or porch;   2.      Selecting the perfect pumpkin to bring your carving vision to life.;   3.      The beautiful colors and jewel-like appearance of ornamental corn;   4.      This huge skeleton.  He is ready for Halloween.   5.      Mums.  They come in a wide variety of sizes and colors;   6.      Giant fuzzy spiders;   7.      A new wreath for the front door;   8.      Porch displays with corn stalks and hay bales;   9.      Small, funky gourds; and   10.  New door mats with adorable fall vibes.         Current Gardening Trends   This month we’re focusing on outdoor kitchens.  Because, we all know that food tastes better outdoors!   Outdoor kitchens are a popular home addition that extends the living space into the garden, providing a seamless blend of indoor and outdoor environments.  With features like built-in grills, countertops, sinks, and even pizza ovens, outdoor kitchens are designed to make cooking and entertaining outside more convenient and enjoyable.  One of the primary benefits is the social aspect - they create a natural gathering point for family and friends, enhancing the overall entertainment experience.  Cooking outdoors can also reduce indoor heat and energy costs during warmer months.  Additionally, outdoor kitchens add aesthetic appeal and increase property value by turning a backyard into a functional and versatile space, making them an investment that combines practicality with luxury.     Did You Know – Fun Plant Facts   Since it’s October and we’re surrounded by pumpkins at New England Nurseries, let’s take a deeper look at what makes them fun and unique.  First off, pumpkins are technically a fruit.  They receive this botanical classification because they contain seeds and develop from the flowering part of the plant. Interestingly, pumpkins were once used to remove freckles.  While we’re not sure if they can completely eliminate freckles, pumpkins do contain an enzyme that makes them perfect for exfoliating face masks. The largest pumpkin ever recorded was grown in Italy in 2021 and weighed a staggering 2,702 pounds. There are over 45 different varieties of pumpkins, ranging from the small and sweet ‘Sugar Pie’ to the enormous ‘Atlantic Giant.’  They also come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, and colors - including blue, white, and even green.  Despite their dense appearance, pumpkins are made up of 90% water, which makes them low in calories and hydrating.  And lastly, pumpkin flowers are edible.  They’re often used in salads, stir-fried, deep-fried, or added to soups.  The flowers are said to have a mild, sweet flavor.      Greenery or Gear: Monthly Plant or Tool Spotlight   As you bring your plants inside, you’ll want to give them a good check over.  It’s probably a good time to give all over your indoor plants a look over.  What you are looking for are any signs of insect infestation.  Signs of an indoor plant insect infestation can include yellowing or wilting leaves, tiny holes or spots on the foliage, and sticky residue on leaves or surrounding surfaces. You might also notice webbing, a cotton-like substance, or visible insects like aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies on the undersides of leaves or near the soil. Additionally, stunted growth or distorted leaves can indicate the presence of pests feeding on the plant’s nutrients.   Should you find any issues, you’ll want to use a Horticultural Spray Oil, Neem Oil, or Insecticidal Soap to rid your plant of pests.  Products like Neem Oil are also effective against powdery mildew and rust.